How to change the tire on my Haze Electric Bike

Busted tire? Popped tube? Total bummer.

Luckily, replacing a tire on a bicycle is a pretty routine procedure. We’ll guide you through it here.

One important thing to note: Replacing the rear tire is more complex than replacing the front tire. In addition to dealing with the wheel itself, you’ll also have to work with other parts, including the chain, and do the tire replacement with the wheel still tethered to the bike by wires. If this sounds like too much to take on, bring your bike and a spare tire/tube set to a local repair shop to get the work done.

 

Things you need to know  

What you’ll need:   

• Your Haze
• A replacement tire and tube set for your Haze
• A manual air pump with gauge
• 2 tire levers (such as these) or 2 flathead screwdrivers with duct or electrical tape
• Front (F) tire replacement only: 16mm box wrench
• Rear (R) tire replacement only: 18mm box wrench, 10mm box wrench, 5mm Allen key (preferably with a ratchet and socket set), sharp scissors, 2 plastic zip ties, one of the keys that came with your Haze

How long it will take:

Front tire - Less than 1 hour
Rear tire - 1 - 2 hours

Level of difficulty:

Front tire – Medium
Rear tire – Hard

 

Starting Notes

• Ensure that the bike is powered off prior to attempting any adjustment or repair.
• You may want to grab an assistant to help with some parts.
• The directions given in these instructions—right, left, front/forward, and rear/back—are oriented as the rider would when seated on the bike. The “right side” of the Haze or anything on the “right side” of the Haze, for example, refers to the side where the rider’s right hand and foot will be.
• Make sure you’re reading the instructions specific to the tire you need to work on. Look for “F” (for front tire) and an “R” (for rear tire) at the start of each section. Front tire instructions are first, followed by the rear tire instructions. (Click here to go straight to the rear tire instructions.)

 

Front tire replacement (F)

Phase 1: Take the wheel off of the bike (F)

1. Carefully position the bike upside down on a soft surface so that it is resting on the seat and handlebar.
2. Loosen and remove the axle nuts on both sides of the front wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the 16mm wrench. Set them aside.
3. Remove the washers from both sides of the axle. Set the washers aside with the axle nuts.
4. Lift the wheel up and out of the front fork. 
   
   

Phase 2: Take the old tire and tube off the rim (F)

1. If using screwdrivers, cover the tips of the screwdrivers with tape to make the edges blunter. (This will help you avoid making any punctures to the old tire or tube, as well as the new set that you’ll put on later.)
2. Twist the dust cap on the tire valve counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Set it aside; you’ll use this same cap on your new tire.
3. Completely deflate the tire. Using the tip of your air pump or the tip of a small tool, press the pin inside of the tire valve to let all remaining air out through the valve. (To release the last bit of air, you may need to use your hand to squeeze the tube while you’re pressing the pin.)
4. Use your fingers to push the valve through the hole in the rim so that the valve is mostly or fully inside the tire.
5. On one side of the wheel near the valve hole, wedge the tip of one tire lever or screwdriver between the rim and rubber tire. Using the rim for support, lever the tip of the tool up to create a space in between the rim and the tire.
6. Put the tip of the other tire lever or screwdriver into that space. While you hold the first tool in the levered position to maintain that space, work your way around the rest of the tire with the second tool inch by inch, using it to lift the edge of the tire away from the rim and push it towards and then off the other side of the rim.
7. Once this side of the tire is released from the rim, use your hands to pull the tire (and tube underneath it) off the other side. Set the old tire and tube aside for repair or discard it.
   
   

Phase 3: Put the new tube and tire on the rim (F)

1. Line the new tube around the inside of the tire with the valve pointed towards the middle of the tire.
2. Hold the tire (with tube inside of it) next to the rim with the valve adjacent to the valve hole.
3. Lift the section of the tire and tube with the valve onto the rim and push the valve through the hole in the rim. (You may have to use some force to get the lip of the tire over the edge of the rim.)
4. Push the valve through the hole.
5. Using your hands, work your way around the rest of the tire, lifting the tire and tube together so that the entire thing is resting partially onto the rim.
6. To bring the tire and tube fully onto the rim, turn the tire around so you are working from the other side of it. Place the tip of one tire lever or screwdriver under the lip of the tire that is already onto the rim, taking care not to puncture the tube. Use the tool to pull the tire onto the rim, working your way around the entire tire. If necessary, use the rim to get some leverage on the your tool so that you can lift and pull the tire towards you.
7. Remove the tool and, using your fingers, center the tire on the rim so that none of the tire edges extend over the lips of the rim.

Phase 4: Inflate the tire (F)

1. Following the manufacturer’s instructions on your air pump and using a gauge to check it, inflate the tire to the recommended pressure of 35 – 45 PSI.
2. Twist the dust cap clockwise onto the valve until it is secure.
   
   

Phase 5: Put the wheel back on the bike (F)

1. With the bike still positioned upside-down, place the wheel back in the fork such that the following conditions are met:
   1. The axles are resting in the wedges on the front fork.
   2. The side of the wheel with the disc brake is on the left side of the bike.
   3. The disc is resting in the caliper, with one caliper arm on each side and the brake pads aligned with the edge of the disc.
2. From the hardware you removed when taking the wheel off, place a washer onto each end of the axle.
3. Using your fingers, twist an axle nut clockwise onto each end of the axle. Tighten it fully by turning it clockwise with the 16mm wrench.

Phase 6: Final adjustments (F)

1. Check that the wheel spins smoothly and is secure in the axle. An unsecure wheel can loosen or fall off, putting the rider at risk.
2. Conduct a brake functionality and safety test. If necessary, adjust the brake caliper until it is properly aligned and re-test the brakes.

 

Rear (R) tire replacement

Phase 1: Prep for wheel removal (R)

1. Carefully position the bike upside down on a soft surface so that it is resting on the seat and handlebar.
2. Position yourself on the left side (kickstand side) of the bike. Loosen and remove the rear axle nut by turning it counterclockwise with the 18mm wrench.
3. Pull the rear wheel lock off of the axle, as well as the washer underneath it. Set these two pieces aside along with the left axle nut.
4. Relocate to the right side of the rear wheel. Loosen and remove the axle nut by turning it counterclockwise with the 18mm wrench.
5. Remove the washer from the axle. Set it aside with the axle nut.
6. Turn your attention to the chain adjuster hardware that remains on this side of the axle. Loosen and remove the nut at the end of the chain adjuster bolt by turning it counterclockwise with the 10mm wrench. Slide the rectangular chain adjuster plate off of the end of the bolt, then pull the chain adjuster bolt off the axle. Set the three pieces of the chain adjuster aside with the right axle nut and washer.
7. Looking at the side of the brake caliper, locate the two black bolts that are securing it to the rear fork. Loosen and remove the bolt that is the closer one to the kickstand by turning it counterclockwise with a 5mm Allen Key. Set it aside with the washer alongside it.
   Troubleshooting: If the bolt is too tightly fastened to turn with an Allen Key, you may need to use a ratchet and socket with Allen Key tip to get the bolt to budge.
8. Loosen but do not remove the other bolt by turning it counterclockwise with the 5mm Allen Key for 3-4 rotations, such that it is still holding the caliper to the frame, but the caliper can be shifted down.
   
   

Phase 2: Take the wheel off the bike (R)

1. Wriggle the wheel until you can take the chain off the crankset. Dangle the chain in a place that is out of the way from the rear axle.
2. Wriggle the part of the caliper down away from the fork until the caliper arms clear from the disc.
3. Locate the motor wire that is connected to the brake disc. Starting from the disc, run your finger along the wire. When you encounter a hook that is fastening the wire to the frame, loop the wire out from under the hook. When you encounter a zip tie, carefully use your scissors to cut the zip tie (without nipping the wire). Discard the zip tie.
4. Locate the brake cable in the caliper. Run your fingers along the caliper and carefully use your scissors to cut the zip tie that is fastening it to the motor wire. Discard the zip tie.
5. Wriggle the wheel out of the fork.
6. From the removed wheel, slide the washer on each side of the axle off and set them aside, separate from the other hardware.
   
   

Phase 3: Take the old tire and tube off of the rim (R)

Important: Removing and replacing the tire and tube will require somewhat rough handling of the tire. Make sure your bike, still tethered to the rear wheel, is propped up or positioned such that it is secure and in a space where there is room for you to work next to it. Be mindful when maneuvering the tire onto the rim not to knock the bike over.

1. Position the wheel as far from the bike frame as possible so that you can place the wheel onto the floor and have space to work around it, and rotate it so that the disc side is facing you.
2. If using screwdrivers, cover the two tips of the screwdrivers with tape to make the edges blunter. (This will help you avoid making any punctures to the old tire or tube, as well as the new set that you’ll put on later.)
3. Twist the dust cap on the tire valve counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Set it aside; you’ll use this same cap on your new tire.
4. Completely deflate the tire. Using the tip of your air pump or the tip of a small tool, press the pin inside of the tire valve to let all remaining air out through the valve. (To release the last bit of air, you may need to use your hand to squeeze the tube while you’re pressing the pin.)
5. Use your fingers to push the valve through the hole in the rim so that the valve is mostly or fully inside the tire.
6. On the disc side of the wheel near the valve hole, wedge the tip of one tire lever or screwdriver between the rim and rubber tire. Using the rim for support, lever the tip of the tool up to create a space in between the rim and the tire.
7. Put the tip of the other tire lever or screwdriver into that space. While you hold the first tool in the levered position to maintain that space, work your way around the rest of the tire with the second tool inch by inch, using it to lift the edge of the tire away from the rim and push it towards and then off the other side of the rim.
8. Once this side of the tire is released from the rim, use your hands to pull the tire (and tube underneath it) off the other side. Set the old tire and tube aside for repair or discard it.

Phase 4: Put the new tube and tire on the rim (R)

1. Line the inside of the new tire with the new tube, positioning it such that the valve is pointed towards the middle of the tire.
2. Hold the tire (with tube inside of it) next to the rim so that the valve is adjacent to the valve hole.
3. Using some force, left that section of the tire and tube onto the rim enough that you can push the valve through the hole. You may have to use some force to get the lip of the tire over the edge of the rim.
4. Push the valve through the hole.
5. Using your hands to work your way around the rest of the tire, positioning the tube around the center of the rim and lifting one side of the tire onto the rum as much as possible.
6. Turn the tire around so you are working from the other side of it. Place the tip of one tire lever or screwdriver under the lip of the tire, taking care not to puncture the tube.
7. Use the tool to pull the tire fully onto the rim, working your way around the rim bit by bit. If necessary, use the rim to get some leverage on the tool so that you can lift and pull the tire towards you.
8. Remove the tire lever or screwdriver and, using your fingers, center the tire on the rim so that the edges of the tire are inside any lip of the rim.
   
   

Phase 5: Inflate the tire (R)

1. Following the manufacturer’s instructions on your air pump and using a gauge to check it, inflate the tire to the recommended pressure of 35 – 45 PSI.
2. Twist the dust cap clockwise onto the valve until it is secure.
   
   

Phase 6: Put the wheel back on the bike (R)

1. If you have repositioned your bike to maneuver the tire onto the wheel, return it to the upside-down position.
2. Slide the two last washers that you removed from the axle back onto the axle—one on each side.
3. Lift and hold the wheel up near the axle is near the wedges in the fork and the disc is the caliper side of the bike. Pick up the dangling chain and loop the end of around and onto the cassette, such that the spaces in the chain fit on the teeth of the cassette.
4. Push the axle into the wedges at the end of the fork with the washers on the inside of the fork and the disc positioned such that the caliper can slide around it.
5. Lean slightly into the wheel to hold it into position there (or ask an assistant to hold it). Put the washer with hook that you removed with the wheel lock onto the (left) kickstand-side of the axle, with the hook curved towards the bike. Rotate the washer until the hook fits into the fork wedge behind the axle.
6. Slide the hole in the rear wheel lock onto the same axle with the keyway facing away from the bike and closer to the rear of the bike than the hole.
7. Test the positioning of the lock: Insert the key and lock the rear wheel lock, the rotor should emerge from the back of the keyway and land in an interior space on the disc. You may need to rotate the wheel slightly to get the disc in proper position to check the installation of the lock. Once checked, unlock the rear wheel lock and push the cover over the keyway of the rear lock.
8. User your fingers to twist the axle nut clockwise onto the end of the axle.
9. Switch to the right side of the bike. Make sure that the end of the axle is in the wedge of the fork.
10. Gather all the hardware from the chain adjuster. Slide the eyehole of chain adjuster bolt onto the axle such that the bolt curves inward and is pointed toward rear of the bike.
11. Slide the rectangular plate onto the end of the bolt, with the plave curved inward toward the axle. Position the plate against the fork such that it fits into and hugs the wedge in the fork.
12. Finger-twist the small nut clockwise onto the end of the chain adjuster bolt, enough that it is snug against the rectangular plate and holding it in position against the fork.
13. Slide the last washer onto the end of the right axle, and twist the axle nut clockwise onto the axles with your fingers.
    
    

Phase 7: Fix the dropped chain (R)

1. If your chain is not already on the rear cassette, put it back on such that the spaces of the chain are in the teeth of the cassette.
2. Lift the dropped chain onto the crankset and get a small section of the chain onto the teeth of the crankset.
3. Using your hands, mimic the action of pedaling to turn the crankset. This will pull the rest of the chain onto the crankset.
   
   

Phase 8: Re-connect the brake caliper to the frame (R)

1. With the bike still upside down, position yourself on the kickstand side.
2. Lift the caliper back into its position against the frame such that the following conditions are met:
   1. The disc is between the two brake pads inside of the caliper.
   2. The empty hardware hole in the caliper is re-aligned with the hole in the fork from which you removed the black bolt.
3. With the small black washer on the bolt, finger twist the bolt clockwise into the aligned holes.
   
   

Phase 9: Final adjustments (R)

(You’re near the end!)

1. Weave the motor wire under the three sets of hooks on the fork from which you removed it at the beginning of the process.
2. Lift the brake cable so that it meets up with the motor wire near the first set of hooks. At the point where they meet up, wrap one zip tie around the fork and the two wires, and tighten it to secure the wires to the fork. If necessary, clip the excess end of the zip tie so that it is not in the way of your bike’s moving parts.
3. Repeat step 2 with the other zip tie at a section of the fork closer to the pedal area.
4. Tighten all the hardware that you have worked with during this process, including:
   1. The two black bolts on the side of the caliper. (5mm Allen Key)
   2. The two axle nuts (18mm wrench)
   3. Chain adjuster nut (10mm wrench)
5. Flip the bike upright and prop it up using the kickstand.
6. Check the tension on your chain by moving the middle of the chain (the part not on the cassette or crankset) up and down with your fingers. If the chain can move up or down more than ½ inch, you will need to adjust the chain so that the chain is secure.
7. Conduct a brake functionality and safety test. If necessary, adjust the brake caliper until it is properly aligned and re-test the brakes.